I've always built by hand using
BBEdit as my text editor of choice on a Mac. It does have a live preview built in, so if you have a large screen or multiple screens you can watch the page change as you edit the code, and you can also preview in the browser of your choice (or all open browsers at once).
But I'm thinking maybe it's time to take a close look at this Dreamweaver thing. Is that one you can get by itself or does Adobe try to force you to get it bundled with other things like they do with Photoshop now?